Frequently Asked Questions

This is the most common question we get, so we created an entire page for it. Please see our Pitlock measurement guide for detailed instructions on how to measure your bike for Pitlocks.

If you are purchasing a new bike and do not physically have it yet, please visit the manufacturers’ website for sizing information. We understand that this can be overwhelming, and if you contact us we will do our best to help you determine the correct sizes for your bike.

Pitlock standard axles (as opposed to thru axles and solid axle nuts) replace 5mm “quick release” skewers, and are suitable for most bicycles. We offer a wide range of axle lengths, and are able to cover all 5mm “quick release” sizes. We highly recommend reading our Pitlock measurement guide for help determining the Pitlock size you need. We highly recommended that you measure both your front and rear axles (they are different lengths) before making your purchase.

Note: Please be very careful when you are shortening the axle. Even if the axle threads protrude past the lock housing by 5mm, it is still possible to install the end caps and protect the locking mechanism from road debris and grime.

Given the wide range bikes on the market, and the fact that many manufacturers do not provide dropout widths on their websites, we will not always be able to tell you which Pitlocks you’ll need. Based on experience, the standard skewer lengths will fit about ~90% of bikes; however, we encourage you to visit the manufacturer’s page for your bike.

If you contact us we will do everything we can to help you determine the correct sizes for your bike.

In order to determine which saddle clamp you’ll need, you have to measure the outer diameter of the bicycle frame. Use our Pitlock measuring guide to determine which saddle clamp you need. The standard size is 31.8mm, but your seatpost may vary.

A Note about Seatpost Security: If the seatpost doesn’t have a separate clamp, and only has the eyelets welded on the bicycle frame, enough plane pressure surface needs to be available to install the Pitlock closure. Since the eyelets of the bicycle frame cannot be clamped, just as ones of an additional plane saddle clamp, an optimal connection between the two pressure surfaces is not possible.

Pitlock’s stainless steel axles can be shortened with a hacksaw or dremel tool. Please be careful when doing so. You should file the end of the skewer after cutting it to remove any jagged edges.

The short answer is “maybe.” Some users in forum posts mention the need to shorten their Pitlock skewers to fit their bike’s dropouts, but this may not apply to you. Pitlock skewers come in several lengths to accommodate the many different widths of bicycle dropouts. Many sites, such as Amazon, only sell the “standard width” sets, but we offer all of the sizes that Pitlock has available. We event sell them individually. Please contact us if you have any questions about the sizes we offer.

See our installation guide for more details. As a rule of thumb, fully tighten the coded nut by hand using the Pit key. Then turn another 1 to 1.5 rotations using a different tool. We recommend the Pitlock keychain tool.

Place the correct Pit key on the coded nut. Then press the Pit key while unscrewing it at the same time. This will unlock the spring washer from the grooves of the coded nut.

No – you should not install the spiral springs of the quick-release skewer with Pitlock. The springs have to be completely removed with the quick release skewers.

If you’re having trouble determining which size replacement key you need, here are a few ways to tell for sure:

1. If the Pitlock is for your stem, brakes, or seatpost, you will need the “standard” key.
2. If the Pitlock is for your wheel skewer and it uses the same key as the Pitlocks on your stem, brakes, or seatpost skewer, you will need the “standard” key.
3. If the Pitlock is for your wheels and is replacing a 5mm (“quick release”) skewer or a thru axle, you will need the “standard” key.
4. If your keycode starts with “#7”, followed by 6 alphanumeric characters (such as “#7ZFRR44”, you will need the “standard” key.
5. If your keycode starts with “#03”, “#90”, or “#38”, followed by 7 to 10 alphanumeric characters, you will need the “solid axle” key.
6. If you have a Rohloff, Shimano Alfine, or Shimano Nexus Hub, or any other solid axle hub, you will need the “solid axle” key.

Pinhead and Hexlox are both fine products, but Pitlock has two unique and effective security features that set it apart from its competitors. Pitlocks have both a coded nut that protects against theft and a specially designed spring washer. The spring washer is anchored by the coded nut which locks the closure. The Pit keys are used to unlock the whole mechanism. The keys’ side panels press and turn the springs of the spring washer at the same time (similar to the way child safety locks on medicine bottles work.)

Because of the mechanism that requires dual pressure and the coded nut, pliers are not able to break into the system. Opposite the locking mechanism, the conical security ring is pivoted so that it can’t be cut by using force.

In general, you will not be able to use Pitlock Skewers with horizontal dropouts due to a lower clamping pressure than cam-style quick-release skewers – in fact, even the new exposed-cam quick-release skewers on the market these days don’t hold well in horizontal dropouts. You can, however, use Pitlocks if you have a chain-line gadget like Surly’s Tuggnut. In general though, we don’t recommend using Pitlock for horizontal dropouts unless a chain tensioner is applied.

The use of Pitlock skewers is not so much limited by the type of bike, but the type of riding. Pitlock skewers are designed for road riding, commuting, touring with heavy loads, and general cross-country mountain biking. They are not designed for heavy off-road riding or urban free-riding where the bike will be subject to heavy impact like jumps and drop-offs.

However, modern mountain bikes frequently use thru axles (rather than 5mm quick release skewers), and Pitlock has a full product line specifically for these. Please see our wide selection of security through axles, and visit our thru axle sizing guide if you need further information.

If you have a goose-neck/Nitto-style quill stem and threaded steer tube, you will not be able to use Pitlock’s locking topcap.

Again, it depends. If your fork uses a star-fangled nut, you will be able to use Pitlock’s locking topcap. If your fork uses an expansion plug, you may be able to adapt it to work with the Pitlock bolt. The issue usually comes down to the relatively short length of the Pitlock bolt compared to the extra long ones used by most expansion plugs.

To keep the cost of the sets with V-brake bolts down, the sets come with only two bolts. The intention is to use one bolt in the front and one in the rear (on the same side left/right) to deny a would-be thief a matching set. If you prefer to keep things symmetrical, we can certainly build up custom set for you that includes four bolts.

If your disc brake calipers use an adapter plate, you will indeed need four disc-brake bolts – one for the caliper-adapter plate connection, and one for the adapter plate-boss connection (times 2 for front and rear). Just let us know and we’ll be happy to put together a custom set that includes four bolts.

No. The Pitlock axles have only been tested by Vel-Tech for normal conditions in road traffic.

We do not recommend you do either downhill racing or high jumps with a bicycle fitted with Pitlock.

Yes! To secure the seat post:

1. Order a Pitlock seatpost set
2. When installing the seat post security, make sure that the outer pressure surfaces of the saddle clamp are plane and parallel
3. If you don’t have a fitting clamp on your bike, you can order one here.

To protect the saddle itself, we recommend using Pitstoppers. Pitstoppers are Pitlock’s solution to secure hex bolts on your bike. The most commonly sized seat bolt will require an M8 Pitstopper.

Almost certainly so. Pitlock has released a 9mm x 1 solid axle nut that will fit most front axles including Shimano’s dynamo hubs.

No! While the solid axle nuts are marketed by Pitlock for use with Rohloff and Shimano Nexus and Alfine hubs due their high dollar value and theft-rates, they will work with any solid axle hub with the proper threading. The M10 solid axle nuts fit hubs with a 10mm x 1mm axle, and the Shimano nuts fit 3/8″ x 26tpi axles.

The thread sizes are different for Pitlocks for quick release skewers and Pitlocks for solid axles. As a result, the keys to unlock each are not the same size. If you have a quick release skewer for your front axle and a solid axle in the rear, you will need to have two separate keys – one for each axle.

If your bicycle has solid axles, Pitlock’s M10 set, double or single, should be compatible.

Please keep these conditions in mind before implementing Pitlock:

• The protruding thread should extend about 14 mm out of the dropout in order to securely install Pitlock. If the protruding thread is too short, you will need to use an axle stub with a long threaded axle (available for purchase from Rohloff.)
• Make sure that the threads protrude far enough so that there is enough space for the security ring and the locking mechanism can be assembled correctly.
• Be sure to grease the thread before assembling.

Yes! We carry a supply of all Pitlock keys. If you need one, simply place an order on our site and we’ll send you a replacement key as quickly as possible. We offer emergency rush 2-day shipping upon special request (send us an email after placing your order.)

If you lose both keys and your code card, you can reach out to us and we will do our best. If you’ve ordered from us in the past, this will not be an issue – we’ve kept track of all the codes we’ve sold our customers since 2006. If you purchased from another supplier, you may need to have the skewer removed by an experienced technician at your local bike shop. Please do not lose your key code!

If you have lost your code but still have your key (or an uninstalled nut), we can use this to identify your keycode. Please see our Pitlock keycode identification service for more details. If your order includes this service and additional products, we will follow up with you via email for additional instructions before processing your order (e.g., if you order a skewer and a replacement key service, we assume you’d like the skewer to match the keycode you’re having identified, but we will confirm via email.)

Please visit our returns page for specific instructions and details on our policy.

We do our best to get your order right the first time. If you believe you have received the wrong product, or a defective product, we will cover shipping costs to send you a replacement piece as quickly as possible, and a shipping label to return the pieces you received in error/defect.

While this is extremely rare, we have heard a small number of reports of it happening. If you purchased your skewers from us, please contact us and we will replace it free of charge.

We genuinely believe Pitlock products are the best available in the market today, and we completely stand behind their quality. If you have a defective product, contact us and we will replace it.

This is a complex question, and the short answer is “make it as difficult as possible.” Here are a few simple “Do’s” and “Don’t’s” to follow:

Do:

• Mark your bicycle uniquely in order to keep track of where your bicycle is and which bike is yours.
• Be careful when choosing where you want to park your bicycle, and always look for a crowded place that is brightly lit.
• Lock your bicycle to a sturdy object, solidly bolted to the ground. A wooden garden fence, or even small tree, would not be considered sturdy.
• Park and lock your bicycle in an upright position so it doesn’t give the thief a chance to lay it down.
• Use multiple locking devices on your bike. Pitlock’s security, caps, bars etc. are great in combination with a U-Lock (like Abus or Kryptonite) or a chain lock.
• Make sure to let the locking mechanism points downwards and leave as little space as possible between the lock and the bike, so the thief will not have any direct access to it.

Don’t:

• Park your bicycle near locations that will tell the thief how long the bike will be left unattended (for example, parking your bike outside of a movie theater.)
• Park your bike outside overnight.
• Only rely on a wheel lock, even if you are only gone for a short time. Purchase Pitlock backups so you can secure your wheels and other removable bicycle parts.
• Leave any tools with your bicycle. These may be helpful when you get a flat tire etc., but they will also be helpful for the thieves.
• Leave your Pitlock key with your bike.

Please see this table for approximate weights:

Part	Weight (approx)
Standard seat clamp skewer with locking mechanism	.88 oz (25 grams)
Front wheel skewer with locking mechanism	1.45 oz (41 grams)
Rear wheel skewer with locking mechanism	1.66oz (47 grams)
Full locking set (wheel skewers, topcap, and seat skewer)	4.89 oz (138 grams)

This is very rare, but the most common cause is if they are pulled too tightly during the installation process. The best way to prevent your Pitlock axle from breaking is to properly tighten the Pitlock parts. The ideal torque is 7-10 Nm. Please visit our installation guide for more details.

There are a few other preventative measures you can take that will help prevent your axle from breaking:

• The Pitlock axles should be greased before every installation.
• The contact surfaces need to be flat / flush.
• Ensure that all parts are installed in the right order.

Pitlock has only been tested for the Weber trailer coupling.

Pitlock is not suitable for other trailer couplings, especially if the trailer load is attached to the Pitlock axle.

If you have the Weber trailer coupling we have different lengths of the rear wheel axles in our product range: 155mm, 170mm, and the universal (fully threaded) 240mm skewer.

Pitlock is only able to secure the wheel. It cannot secure the Bob Yak trailer couplings since they are constructed differently.

The Pitlock system has been tested intensively for suitability by Weber Technik. The test had connected the Weber E-coupling and the Pitlock rear wheel axle; the coded nut was tightened with 8-10 Nm, load simulation of 80 kg set on the trailer. The experiment was supported by all components involved.

Note: The Pitlock axle is not supposed to be bent and the locking side needs to have a plane fit on the frame (dropout.)

The correct fit of the Pitlock security (as with the quick release) should be checked regularly.

When assembling, it is necessary to ensure that the Weber multi-tooth element of the anti-rotation device is completely pressed into the base sheets of the coupling.

Note for longer rear wheel axles: If the rear wheel standard length of 155 mm (installation width) is not sufficient, we also offer longer rear wheel axles of 170 mm and 200 mm.